12.08.11
Posted in Uncategorized at 9:56 am by Ryan Cooper
I know the housing market is a bit sluggish to say the least, but this topic came to me yesterday. Here are some things every home owner should know and do before they buy. This is looking at it from a repair, remodel and renovation stand point. REPAIR being the biggest.
In my business, I get calls to make repairs or to look at problems. Many of these homes are less then 10 years old. What I have found to be one of the biggest problems is design. As I am looking at the problem the homeowner has, I have to come up with a game plan to solve the problem. As I am looking at the problem, many times I look at it and say “Why” when it comes to the design. Those split fascia dormers look good(but), this bay window should be over about 6″(why here), the drainage is all wrong, etc.
When I pull up to many of these homes, I am much like you and say, “Nice house”. The features are many. But, what it lacks is benefits. Benefits in simple design. All these angles, chopped up roof pitches and added roof/wall lines makes for a interesting design, but one that leave areas prone to problems. Costly repair problems.
These problems are very expensive to repair. It doesn’t make me feel good to tell a homeowner that their newly built home needs a few thousand dollars in repairs. The biggest thing I see is in the way of water infiltration. Gutters not properly pitched or having enough downspouts in the right places. Downspouts dumping tons of water against foundations. The cheapness of the flashing around pipes, skylights, chimneys and wall roof intersections. Cheapness and lack of caring by the tradesman/builder/inspectors is what I see.
As for inspectors, not to knock on home inspectors or township building inspectors, but I have seen quite a bit left unseen or just overlooked. Which leads to another part of this subject. Homeowner inspections before you buy. In the last 10 to 15 years with the housing boom, home inspection companies have sprung up all over. Many are good, some are worse than bad. I have seen both.
So what is the solution? Well, a win-win is to have someone you trust and is knowledgeable in the home repair business. Not just a friend or relative who is a plumber, carpenter, etc. But a real handyman. One that you can rely on and trust. Over the years this person should be not only a service person to you, but also a friend. This way they wouldn’t steer you in the wrong direction as most friends wouldn’t.
You wouldn’t buy a used car without having “Your” mechanic look it over, so don’t by a home without your friend, the handyman to look the home over. Home inspectors are good (if you find a good one), but the handyman/friend is the guy who is going to be the one who makes the repairs. Home inspector companies, don’t do repairs. If they do, it would be a conflict of interest. In my business I have know private home inspectors who have made a mint on bird dog or referral fees from repair companies. I also have some real horror stories of these transactions. It’s a shame when morals get taken away by money.
So, get a handyman, make friends with him before you buy. It could be a money saving friendship and will save you thousands in a life time.
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12.07.11
Posted in Uncategorized at 11:38 am by Ryan Cooper
This mornings blog post is going to be short and sweet. I got up a little late this morning (4:30am).
All I am going to say about today is, do the right thing. Everybody wins. Everybody is happy.
It’s great, to feel good.
Ryan
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12.06.11
Posted in Uncategorized at 12:00 pm by Ryan Cooper
Yesterday, while at a customers home fixing a gutter problem, I did a little more investigating. The problem the customer was having was a water issue. First, the amount of roof area was entirely to big for the 4′ of guttering it was running into. Second, this over flow of rainwater was getting into the home (less than 8 years old).
When I first arrived at the home, I first took off all the 2×3 downspouts at the problem area. After, removing the second downspout, it was apparent where the water was getting in. In an inside corner where two downspouts converge the front brickwork and the siding come together. This area was hidden from the eye, by the second downspout. I took my fingers and pushed on the J-Channel in the corner. What I saw was a gap about a 1/4″ to 1/2″ wide the full length of the channel (about 10′). After seeing the white Tyvek house wrap I knew this is where all the water was entering.
I went back to the truck got my caulk gun and two tubes of caulk. I held the channel back and pumped a liberal amount of caulk in the gap. Then, I let the channel go back to where it would normally be and put a pretty bead of caulk down the entire channel/brick meeting point.
For about $10 worth of good silicone, a little time to investigate and do the repair, thousands of dollars worth of repairs, headaches and mold remediation can be avoided. Hence, “The Power of Caulk”. Had the builder or his sub-contractors did the right job to begin with the problem would have never happened.
Not to try and sell my or any other handyman’s service, but it is in the best interest to a least once every other year have a trustworthy and knowledgeable person get on a ladder, break out the caulk and gun and seal up all these cracks and cavities. A little caulk will keep out water, bugs and wind/air saving the home-owner lots of money and headaches down the road.
Hope this helps,
Ryan
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12.05.11
Posted in Uncategorized at 10:44 am by Ryan Cooper
Ever since the mild hurricane and wet weather, we had in late August, through early September. I have been repairing, cleaning and looking at all the damages done by bad gutter maintenance.
Gutters, often are taken for granted. After all, they are about the most inexpensive part of a home’s exterior.
However, in my opinion the most important after the roof.
A house is basically, a shelter from the elements. The roof is what keeps us dry, by deflecting water, ice and snow around our possessions and us. Nevertheless, all that water is dumped down a slope into a trough called your gutter and then down a downspout. Pouring hundreds, maybe thousands of gallons of water on the ground around your foundation, which holds up your home. This adds a lot of pressure. (1000 sq. ft of roof area and one inch of rain equal 560 gallons of water or over two tons) But, that is another topic. Bad guttering and drainage systems lead to many headaches, costly repairs and health issues.
A little time just inspecting your gutters could save you thousands of dollars in repair costs, mold removal and better your health.
Your gutters should be, inspected and cleaned at least once a year. Twice a year is better. Here in Dover, Delaware these times should be about mid-May (after the trees bud and leaf out) and again in late-November (after the leaves fall).
Your winter cleaning and inspection makes sure the snow and ice do not bring the gutter down to the ground. In addition, lets the spring rains run out and flow, as they should. Away from your house.
The spring-cleaning makes sure the flash showers of summer do not have the water running over and deteriorating your foundation, wrecking flowerbeds or making mulch beds wet, which leads to mold on your house.
Get your gutters cleaned and inspected. This fall has yet again proven to me the importance of this simple home maintenance issues.
If you are in the Kent County Delaware area, give me a call today! 302-222-8517
For those out of my area, call your local handyman or get the ladder out and protect your investment. But, be safe.
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04.15.10
Posted in Green Home Improvements at 1:44 pm by Ryan Cooper
Starting on April 18th (my son’s Birthday) I will be writing 33 money and earth friendly tips that can be done at your home. I will show the costs and savings to you in a percentage saved. As today is tax deadline day, did you take advantage of your $1500 tax credit?
I hope so, if you didn’t, well give me a call and we can see what improvement would give you the most bang for your buck. Some of the topics/tips I will cover are:
Caulking and Weatherstripping
Insulating Your Home
Insulate While You Paint
Programmable Thermostats
Radiant Barriers
Ceiling & Solar Attic Fans
Whole House Fans
Energy Recovery Ventilators
Flushing Your Water Heater
Water Heater Blankets and Pipe Insulation
Adjusting Water Heater Temperature
Faucet Aerators
Water Efficeint Shower Heads
Eliminating Phantom Loads
Energy Efficient Lighting
Timer & Motion Sensor Switches
Tubular Skylights
Repairing Windows
Storm Windows
Energy Efficent Windows
Storm Doors
Door Sweeps
Gutters and Downspouts
Grading and Drainage
Green Patios, Walkways and Driveways
Composite Decking and Porches
Recycled Plastic and Composite Fencing
Outdoor Solar Lights
Rainwater Collection
Energy Efficient Landscaping
Drip Irragation Systems
Rain & Soil Moisture Sensors
I’ll be writing on what it will cost and what it will save you. The pros and cons of materials, accounting for cost, comfort, quality and enviromental impacts.
Green home improvement shopping tips, what to watch out for.
The projects will be ranked in cost, savings and how easy it would be for a do-it-yourselfer to do.
I will explain the value of “Green Improvements” to you. Value in the resale of your home, comfort level while being home, the money you will save and the most important your health (mold, mildew and toxic chemicals).
Some are more durable, weather and fire wise. Which results in less maintenance, longer service and less replacements. Some can lower your home insurance rates.
Any way, check back daily to read up on your green possiblities on your home and in your lives.
Thanks,
Ryan “The Dover Handyman”
www.doverhandyman.com
302-222-8517 Call now and request a free estimate and audit.
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Posted in Uncategorized at 6:57 am by Ryan Cooper
Create a Quick Canopy
Provide shade and sophistication with an improvised canopy. Make a special presentation by twisting a swath of sheer cloth to create a textured “ceiling” over your outdoor dining table.
Make It Personal
Whether your style tends toward classic or quirky, bring it to your deck with personal touches. This home’s owner decorated with a whimsical monogram wall hanging and unique hanging light fixtures.
Step It Up
Design your deck so it’s multitiered. Here, the varying levels add visual interest and set up several different conversation areas.
Test Garden Tip: If you have a multilevel deck, be sure it’s well lit so it’s not a safety hazard.
Flirt with Fabrics
Transform a deck into a true outdoor room with rich colorful fabrics. On this deck, coordinating throw pillows, upholstery, and curtains bring indoor comfort outside — while an area rug grounds the space.
Get Glowing
Give your deck a warm glow with soft, scattered lighting. Create extra visual interest by using lanterns and candles at varying levels to brighten the space.
Potted Ponds
Add a soothing water garden to your deck by creating one in a pot or raised bed. This delicate water lily makes a serene, inviting focal point.
Paint It Pretty
Tap into your artistic side and use paint to add special touches. This deck received added excitement with a “welcome mat” and personalized gate.
Work with Water
Decorate your deck’s railing with a simple water feature. A fountain adds a tranquil yet interesting element to an otherwise plain railing.
Meditation Station
Bring your space down to earth with Zen-inspired decor. Combining white candles and rocks with pink petunias and lavender pillows creates a calming, tranquil look.
A Room with a View
Create an open-air sitting room with see-through walls. These elegant white window frames let you look out to the landscape for a lovely blending of indoor and outdoor space. A candelabra, glass cloche, and topiaries add a Victorian touch.
Think Outside the Window Box
If you’re not crazy about planter boxes, why not try a simpler approach? These tasteful hanging containers add vibrancy without heavy installation.
Build a Bar
Bring the fun outdoors with deck furniture that’s party-friendly. Add a freestanding wet bar to turn your deck into the perfect place for evening entertaining.
Light Stuff
Illuminate your deck with the soft glow of hanging lights. Here, bulbs strung through a railing add fireflylike twinkle that complements the furniture’s muted color scheme.
Welcome Wildlife
Include space for wildlife on your deck. Look for ways to incorporate a birdbath, birdhouses, or a butterfly sipping pool to create a haven for winged friends.
Hang Time
Designate prime spots for hanging baskets to add color and draw the eye toward scenic views. Here, posts attached to the deck railing provide ample room for hanging arrangements, and neon green Adirondacks add a pop of color.
For all your backyard building wants and needs contact me at 302-222-8517 or ryan@doverhandyman.com
Thanks,
Ryan “The Dover Handyman”
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04.14.10
Posted in Uncategorized at 12:00 pm by Ryan Cooper
Step 1 Clean the mobile home roof thoroughly before attempting to reroof. Remove all dust, debris and clay deposits to ensure that the new roof adheres properly. Scrub the roof with a bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water. Alternately, you can use a pressure washer.
Step 2 Apply a roof coating, which you can find at your local do-it-yourself store. Put the roof coating on using a soft bristle paint brush or nap roller with a long handle. If you have one available, use a heavy duty paint sprayer to speed up the task.
Step 3 Allow the mobile home roof to dry. It will feel dry to the touch after 2 hours, but will not be ready for a second coat until after 6 hours. Applying a second coat too soon will prevent the first coat from adhering.
Step 4 Wash the paint brush and bucket or the paint sprayer immediately after use. It will be difficult to remove dried on roofing material from the tools.
Thanks,
Ryan “The Dover Handyman”
www.doverhandyman.com
Call today to get on our schedule!
302-222-8517
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04.13.10
Posted in Uncategorized at 6:30 am by Ryan Cooper
Inspect Brickwork and Stucco
Spalling is a chipping or popping away of a brick’s face, leaving the brick’s interior susceptible to moisture and crumbling. Look for this and any deteriorated mortar which typically occurs on older homes.
Is your brick plagued with efflorescence, those unsightly white deposits caused by soluble salts left behind during water evaporation? The Brick Industry Association recommends dry brushing in warm, dry weather to remove it.
If you discover water penetration in brick, considering sealing the brick with an appropriate sealant.
Replace Rotted Siding or Trim; Repaint as Necessary
Ron Gibbs, president of House Doctors Handyman Service (www.housedoctors.com), says repainting siding or trim is often more than a one-weekend project. “You just can’t touch it up here and there,” he says, “you need to paint the whole thing” or at least a section at a time for color consistency.
Clean Gutters and Downspouts
Make sure gutters and downspouts direct water away from the house.
If you live in a place where there’s a lot of freezing and thawing gutters will expand and contract, so make sure they are flush to the roof with no sags or dips, says Haskett.
Gibbs recommends getting a professional cleaning if you live in a two-story house. Do-it-yourselfers will be safer cleaning a ranch home.
Consider installing gutter guards.
Inspect Your Roof
Shingles that curl (turn up) and claw (turn down) can make your roof inefficient and susceptible to leaks, says Haskett.
Call a minimum of three roofers before committing to one for repairs. You’ll educate yourself in the process and end up with a better deal.
Get a Chimney Check-Up
Have a professional chimney sweep clean/inspect your active or decorative chimney. Professionals should also check the chimney flue and cap for cracks or leaking. Gibbs says the pros have the right equipment to get the job done in a couple of hours. “If you do it yourself, it’ll take you more than that,” he says.
Don’t Overlook Your Attic
Check your attic for proper ventilation and birds nests.
Look for obstructions over vents, damaged soffit panels, roof flashing leaks and wet spots on insulation. Keeping a good airflow will save you when it comes to cooling costs, says Haskett.
When you’re rooting around, wear long sleeves and gloves to protect yourself from insulation.
Check Your Heat/Air Unit; Change Batteries in Detectors
You can change filters and clean the air purifier, says Gibbs, but leave the rest to the pros.
Spring is also a good time to have your ducts professionally cleaned. It’ll make your indoor air quality healthier and your furnace more efficient.
Change batteries on smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
Prune Landscaping and Create Good Drainage
Shrubs and landscaping help against soil erosion, but should be planted to form a negative grade, which means water will flow away from the house. “You don’t want growth up against the foundation of the home itself,” says Greg Haskett.
Give Concrete a Little TLC
Seal and inspect asphalt or concrete driveways. Most of us put off sealing driveways until the fall, but the spring is an ideal time to do it, says Gibbs. The sealer you use, driveway material and climate will affect how often you need to seal your driveway.
Power wash concrete patios; inspect decks for rotting wood and secure railings. Seal both if necessary.
Have a professional service your pool.
Weatherproof Windows and Doors
Remove interior storm windows (old homes only) and replace screens on clean windows and doors.”Think about this as far as how you’re going to live,” says Haskett. “If you don’t have air conditioning you want to make sure you have good air flow throughout the home.” You can also save on utility bills by adding blinds to windows that face south and west. Haskett recommends opening windows when the sun sets and closing them at sunrise.
Examine putty/caulk lines around exterior windows and doors; ensure weather stripping creates a good seal.
Don’t Forget the Sump Pump
Make sure the sump pump is operating correctly; install a battery back-up pump. Gibbs recommends putting in a battery backup pump because if your sump pump does go, “you won’t know until it’s too late.” The backup, another pump that floats above the original pump, will kick on when the electricity goes out. If your sump pump fails, an alarm goes off, letting you know the backup is working. A few hundred dollars will save you thousands in water damage, especially if your basement is finished.
Thanks,
Ryan “The Dover Handyman”
www.doverhandyman.com
Call to schedule all your home repairs.
302-222-8517
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04.12.10
Posted in Uncategorized at 6:30 am by Ryan Cooper
“Most roof damage occurs before anyone at ground level notices it. To help prevent the common ‘out of sight, out mind’ pitfall, homeowners should conduct a simple roof checkup twice a year, and at least once following the end of an inclement winter season. Here are some tips from the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) to help you get started:
Safety First
Inspecting your roof or cleaning your gutters can be risky business! So it’s important to remember these important safety tips:
• Make sure the ladder is on solid, level ground.
• Secure the ladder at the top to prevent it from slipping.
• Extend the ladder at least 3 feet beyond the gutter, and angle it 1 foot back from the house for every 4 feet in eave height.
What to Look For On Your Roof
Most roof damage occurs before anyone at ground level notices it. The following are some signs that your roof (or parts of it) may need replacing.
• Shingles that are buckling, curling or blistering; this indicates the end of the shingles’ life expectancy.
• Loose material or wear around chimneys, pipes and other penetrations.
• Excessive amounts of shingle granules in your gutters; granules give shingles added weight and protect them from ultraviolet rays.
• Be sure to inspect the area around pipes and chimneys.
• Inside your home, check interior walls and ceilings for water damage.
Removing Leaves from Your Gutters
Once or twice a year, it’s a good idea to put on your work gloves, get on a ladder and clean out your gutters and downspouts. If your gutters are clogged, rain won’t drain properly. Water can overflow the gutters and cause serious structural damage to your foundation over time. In addition, a gutter full of water is heavy and can damage the fascia boards on your roof.
• Remove leaves, sticks, needles and seeds from gutters, scooping out debris with a garden trowel or gloved hand.
• Don’t try to remove the debris with a hose because that may cause downspouts to clog.
• Remove the pasty goo made up from the tiny granules from asphalt roofing shingles that have mixed with dirt and water.
• Flush residual matter using a garden hose.
• To clean downspouts, turn on the hose full blast and thread into drain opening.
• Check gutters after flushing for pools that indicate low spots. Gutters should be sloped about 1 vertical inch for every 15 to 20 horizontal feet so they drain properly. Adjust gutters as necessary.
Hiring a Professional Roofing Contractor
In addition, know that a roof can save you energy. A professional roofing contractor can help you do the following:
• Determine whether you have appropriate levels of insulation
• Talk to you about new energy-efficient products available, such as reflective shingle granules
• Explain how roof maintenance can help you recognize energy savings
If you see a potential roofing problem, don’t try to fix it yourself. Call a professional roofing contractor. Be sure your contractor has a permanent place of business, telephone number and tax identification number. In addition, check references from prior customers and ask for proof of insurance (liability and workers’ compensation). Finally, be sure to ask the contractor to explain material and workmanship warranties.
To receive your free Roof Checkup Guide or for more information about how to find a professional roofing contractor in your area, check out NRCA’s Web site at www.nrca.net.”
Thanks,
Ryan “The Dover Handyman”
www.doverhandyman.com
302-222-8517
Call today to schedule your repairs!
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03.29.10
Posted in Uncategorized at 4:57 pm by Ryan Cooper
CONCRETE PAVERS Installation Guide
10 easy steps for Do-it-Yourself Installation of Paver patios, driveways & pool decks.
Step 1 Planning
Start with a good level Measure and draw a diagram of the area you want to pave, noting any existing structures such as buildings, fences and other paved areas. Your local Decor dealer can help you determine the best stones and the proper amount of supplies you need.
Step 2 Preparing
Contact your local utility companies before you begin excavation. Stake out an area approximately 12” larger than the area to be paved. Plan to slope the paving away from the buildings in the direction of normal drainage. Make sure that you have 90º corners at your starting point. You can do this by using the 3-4-5 triangle method. From the corner stake measure 3’ across the base and 4’ up the side. The diagonal line joining these two points should be 5’. If it is not, adjust the 4’ side until the diagonal is exactly 5’.
Step 3 Excavating
Where there is only pedestrian traffic, a base of 4”-6” of processed gravel is recommended. To achieve this, excavate 7”-9” to allow for base material, sand and pavers. Where there will be vehicular traffic or around pools a base of 6”-8” of processed gravel is recommended. To achieve this, excavate 9”-11” deep. Make sure to excavate 12” beyond the area you plan to pave.
Step 4 Installing the Base
Compact the surface of the excavated soil with a plate compactor (you can rent these). In small areas a hand tamper may be sufficient. Fill the area with 3/4” minus crushed stone or aggregate approximately 5” thick. Compact this with the plate compactor. Wetting the gravel lightly with water will help with the compacting. When you can walk on the gravel without causing an indentation you can add the next layer of gravel and compact it. Continue to add gravel in layers until the base is approximately 3” to 3-1/2” from the desired level of the finished grade. Make sure to slope the surface for water drainage. The slope should be 3/16″ per foot. Install a level line across the area using a line level. On the stake that is at the end you want to slope towards, move the line down 3/16″ for every foot of pavement. For example, if your pavement will be 8’ long, move the string down 1”. Measure the distance from the line to the base. The distance should be equal all along the line. For example, if your pavement will be 8’ long, move the string down 1”. Measure the distance from the line to the base. The distance should be equal all along the line.
Step 5 Installing the Restraints
Edge restraints should always be used to prevent the pavers from rolling or spreading. You can use PVC, aluminum, concrete or pressure-treated wood. Precast concrete curbs are recommended because they are easy to install, are very durable and will accent your paving stone. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to make sure that all corners are exactly 90º.
Step 6 Screening the Bedding Sand
Before you can lay the pavers, a bed of sand must be prepared. Use 1” outside diameter galvanized electrical conduit, strips of wood or other suitable material, such as screed rails, and place them 6’ to 8’ apart down the area to be paved. Measure the distance from the string lines and the screed rails at several points. If necessary, adjust the height of the rails by putting sand under them or trimming the base underneath if too high. Hand pack sand around the rails to hold them in place. Spread 1” of sand between the rails until it is slightly higher than the rails. Use a 2” x 4” board to drag across the top to smooth and level the surface. Fill in the low spots and repeat. Remove the rails and fill in the indentations with sand, and trowel smooth as you are laying the pavers. Do not step on, compact or wet the sand after you have finished screening.
Step 7 Layering Pavers
Starting in a 90º corner, lay the pavers in the pattern you have chosen. Work outwards keeping all joint lines straight. Use string lines pulled along joint lines and parallel to the edge restraints or, chalk lines snapped on the surface of the sand bed to keep the joint lines straight. Leave a 1/8” space between pavers. Periodically check the alignment of the rows by stringing a line along the front edge of the leading row. Each paver should touch the string. If adjustment is needed use a screwdriver and hammer to move it into place. Work off the pavers you have already installed but stay away from the edge so you do not disturb the sand bed. Install remaining edge restraints. Do not try to turn the pavers with curves in your laying pattern. Cut pavers to fit along the edge restraints.
Step 8 Cutting Pavers
Measure and mark the pavers to be cut with a marking crayon. A diamond blade wet saw, paver splitter or a hammer and chisel can be used to cut pavers. Always wear safety glasses. If possible, keep edge stones to one half paver.
Step 9 Compacting & Setting
Sweep the surface to remove any debris. Spread masonry sand over the surface, sweeping it into the joints leaving surplus sand on the pavers. Tamp the pavers down using the plate compactor. The excess sand on the pavers will cushion the surface and the vibration will assist in filling the joints. Spread more masonry sand if required. Make two or three passes at 90º to each other and re-sweep the surface.
Step 10 Finishing
Sweep the remaining excess dry sand over the surface filling the joints. You will have to repeat this over the next few days as the sand settles and the rain compacts it.
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